Good
questions.
Quick answers to what we hear most at the counter. Don't see yours? Ask us.
Brewing basics, kegging, CO₂ and more.
Still stuck? Call (623) 486-8016 — real brewers answer.
What is SRM?
The Standard Reference Method objectively measures how dark a beer or malted grain is. It's a simple number — it describes darkness only, not hue or tint.
What is IBU?
The International Bittering Units scale measures the bitterness hops give a beer, measured with a spectrophotometer and solvent extraction.
Bitterness is less noticeable in maltier beers, so heavier beers need higher IBUs to balance. An Imperial Stout at 50 IBU can taste less bitter than an English Bitter at 30. Light lagers sit around 5 IBU; an IPA can hit 100+. Past about 100 IBU there's no real difference in perceived bitterness.
Do you mill grain?
Yes — we carry a wide variety of grain malts and mill them for you on site, free.
Which beer kit should I start with?
Grab a starter kit and pick any W.A.Y. Better Beer Kit that sounds good to you. Ales like the Amber, Blonde or American Pale are forgiving first batches. Ask us — we'll walk you through it.
How often does my CO₂ tank need testing?
Every five years. We don't hydro-test on site, but we can get it done for you — we go down about once a month and it takes about a week. More on hydrotesting →
How should I force carbonate?
30 PSI for 24–40 hours at 35°F. After 24 hours, sample it. Not enough carbonation? Leave it longer.
Don't leave beer at high pressure for over 40 hours without tasting — you'll over-carbonate and get nothing but foam. Beer won't really start absorbing CO₂ until it's around 35°F.
What size tanks do you fill?
Up to 20 lb, with beverage-grade CO₂, while you wait. We can't fill SodaStream-style bottles.
Do you rent kegging equipment?
Yes — a jockey box from $40/day and a party pump (Type D kegs) for $25 per 48 hours.